Do Eucalyptus trees engage in unfair competetion?

We've already discussed at length the controversy about extrmely successful exotics like Eucalyptus trees. But if you're committed to living with these down-under vegetables, or if you just have no real choice in the matter (they're on the neighbor's property, removal would cost too much, you need the shade as the climate shifts, you actually like them, etc.), what can you do to landscape under them.

A 2007 conversation over at GardenWeb does a pretty good job with the problem. Starting with a post that ponders the widely-held belief that "something" exuded into the soil by Eucalypti kills off competing plants, respondents weigh in with varying degrees of civility (ah, the Internets!) to arrive at some convincing approaches to the problem.
 
First off, that the Eucalyptus is in fact significantly allelopathic seems well-documented. See below for a sampling of papers on the subject.

In addition to engaging in chemical warfare, many species of Eucalyptus have other bad habits.  

While not necessarily phreatophytic, these trees can suck lots of water and nutrients from the surrounding soil ... so much so that new plants have a hard time competing.

Some species (notably Eucalpytus globulus) cast dense shade that can be troublesome for many popular ornamentals and food-bearing plants.

Finally, the shear biomass of a large Euc can mean great quantities of dropped leaves, lost branches, and bark peels that can bury or overwhelm lesser organisms.

What all this suggests is that under Eucs tough, drought-resistant, and shade-resistant plants and shrubs are probably your best best.  In addition, keeping the area clear of Euc droppings may help.

While your results may vary, some folks clam the following choices may fare well under and around Eucs.  Those marked "+" are California natives.  Many of the others listed here are moderately to highly invasive ... which may only make matters worse.  Choose wisely!

Large Shrubs, Small Trees —

Acacia longifolia SYDNEY WATTLE

+Arctostaphylos sp. MANZANITA

Callistemon citrinus LEMON BOTTLEBRUSH

Cotoneaster COTONEASTER

Escallonia ESCALLONIA

+Heteromeles arbutifolia TOYON

Melaleuca nesophila PINK MELALEUCA

Myoporum laetum COAST SANDALWOOD

+Myrica californica PACIFIC WAX MYRTLE

Nerium oleander OLEANDER

Pittosporum undulatum VICTORIAN BOX

+Rhamnus californica COFFEEBERRY

Xylosma congestum SHINEY XYOLOSMA

Medium Shrubs —

Abelia x grandiflora ABELIA

+Arctostaphylos MANZANITA 

Cistus ROCKROSES

Correa AUSTRALIAN FUCHSIAS

Cotoneaster COTONEASTER

Escallonia ESCALLONIA

Fatsia japonica JAPANESE ARALIA

Galvesia speciosa ISLAND SNAPDRAGON

Juniperus JUNIPERS

+Mahonia aquifolium OREGON GRAPE

+Mahonia nevinii NEVIN'S BARBERRY

+Mahonia pinnata Shinyleaf Mahonia/ California Barberry 

Nandina domestica HEAVENLY BAMBOO

Nerium oleander OLEANDER

Pittosporum tobira TOBIRA

Rhaphiolepis umbellata INDIAN HAWTHORNE

Ribes sanguineum glutinosum PINK-FLOWERING CURRANT

Rosmarinus officinalis ROSEMARY

Viburnum tinus LAURUSTINUS

Westringia COAST ROSEMARY

Small Shrubs —

Cistus ROCKROSE

Correa AUSTRALIAN FUCHSIA

Escallonia ESCALLONIA

+Mimulus aurantiacus and hybrids BUSH MONKYFLOWER

Nandina domestica HEAVENLY BAMBOO

Pittosporum tobira sp. Wheeler's Dwarf DWARF TOBIRA

Rhaphiolepis umbellata INDIAN HAWTHORNE

Sollya heterophylla AUSTRALIAN BLUEBELL CREEPER

Large Perennials —

Acanthus mollis BEAR'S BREECH

Dietes vegeta FORTNIGHT LILY

Elymus condensatus BLUE WILDRYE

Phormium tenax NEW ZEALAND FLAX

Small to Medium Perennials —

Agapanthus LILY-OF-THE-NILE

Aristea ecklonii BLUE STAR IRIS

Asparagus (many) ASPARAGUS "FERN"

Bergenia cordifolia PIG'S SQUEAK

Clivia miniata KAFFIR LILY

Dianella tasmanica FLAX LILY

Helleborus lividus corsicus CORSICAN HELLEBORE

Hemerocallis DAYLILIES

Heuchera maxima CORAL BELLS

Liriope LILY TURF

Muhlenbergia rigens DEER GRASS

Nephrolepis cordifolia SOUTHERN SWORD FERN

Pelargonium GERANIUMS

Penstemon BEARDTONGUES

Phormium tenax (dwarf cultivars) NEW ZEALAND FLAX

Ground Covers —

Aptenia cordifolia RED APPLE

+Arctostaphylos TRAILING MANZANITA

Coprosma kirkii TRAILING COPROSMA

Cotoneaster TRAILING COTONEASTERS

Duchesnea indica MOCK STRAWBERRY

Hedera IVIES

Juniperus TRAILING JUNIPERS

+Mahonia repens CREEPING BARBERRY

Myoporum parvifolium TRAILING SANDALWOOD

Ophiopogon japonicus MONDO GRASS

Vinca major TRAILING PERIWINKLE

Vines —

Distictis TRUMPET VINES

x Fatshedera lizei BOTANICAL WONDER

Hardenbergia violacea WINTER WISTERIA

Hedges/Screens —

Acacia longifolia SYDNEY WATTLE

Callistemon citrinus LEMON BOTTLEBRUSH

Hakea suaveolens SWEET HAKEA

Juniperus JUNIPER

Ligustrum japonicum JAPANESE PRIVET

Myoporum laetum COAST SANDALWOOD

+Myrica californica PACIFIC WAX MYRTLE

Nerium oleander OLEANDER

Pittosporum eugenioides WAVY-LEAF PITTOSPORUM

Pittosporum tobira TOBIRA

Prunus ilicifolia HOLLYLEAF CHERRY

Rosmarinus officinalis ROSEMARY

Viburnum tinus LAURUSTINUS

Westringia COAST ROSEMARY

Xylosma congestum SHINEY XYLOSMA

Well, there you have it.  We'll update this post as we experiment with these ideas.  Good luck, and good botonizing.

 
* * *

Papers supporting the proposition that the Eucalyptus is significantly allelopathic: Allelopathy: How Plants Suppress Other Plants by James J. Ferguson, professor, Bala Rathinasabapathi, associate professor, Horticultural Sciences Department, Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida at Gainesville.

Pulmonate gastropod species composition inside and outside eucalyptus forests by Michael J. WalGren and Lisa E. Andreano, California Department of Parks and Recreation, Morro Bay State Park, 1 Lower State Park Road, Morro Bay, CA.

FINAL LAND MANAGEMENTPLAN BURTON MESA ECOLOGICAL RESERVE, State of California, DEPARTMENT OF FISH AND GAME.

California drought is a risk to my beer?!

From Grist ...

As Jeremy Marshall, Lagunitas’ head brewer, tells NPR, the Petaluma-based outfit prides itself on using “that unique, signature, clean Russian River water,” to achieve the deliciousness of their beers. But as Lake Mendocino, the Russian River’s major source, dries up, it could mean they’ll have to resort to a less tasty option: groundwater.

“It would be like brewing with Alka-Seltzer,” Marshall says.

So yes, your beer is under threat. 

Worse yet, mine is too!

Not only will we have to develop drought-hardy barley and contend with price spikes in the face of climate change, shriveling rivers could translate into a shift in water sources that would lend a certain harsh taste to your favorite brews.

Kill your lawn!

Grass lawns are the default for most American yards, but a some folks are starting to realize there are other options such edible landscaping, xeriscaping, or low-maintenance groundcovers.  Better yet, go Native!

The continuing drought emergency in California is also causing some gardeners to rethink their water-, time-, and chemical-guzzling grass landscapes.

History 

Lawns as we know them may have originated as grassed enclosures within early medieval settlements used for communal grazing of livestock, and were probably not all that distinguishable from pasture fields.  

Over time lawns became popular with European landed aristocracy, but before the invention of mowing machines in 1830 they required enormous inputs of cheap manual labor.  Indeed, keeping a large, heavily manicured lawn showed that the owner could afford to opulently own and keep land that was not being used for housing or food production.  

These European aesthetics eventually took root(!) in America, aided by the romantic and transcendentalist movements of the 1800s (and by the Shakers, who in the late 1700s began the first industrial production of high-quality grass seed in North America).  Some experts also point to the rise of war memorials after the Civil War as having increased demand for large manicured lawns.

The geographic expansion of grass lawns was completed when these un-creative anachronisms were imported to the mostly-arid West as pioneers were replaced by suburbanites emigrating from the much wetter Eastern U.S.

How to kill your lawn!

Before starting, you'll want to ensure that your grand plan doesn't run counter to CC&Rs or other  restrictions in your neighborhood.  And while much progress has been made, some communities still view anything other than a lush green lawn as "weeds" which must be "abated" annually.

Once you've determined that you're going to kill your lawn, you'll need to first remove the existing grass.  Experts offer two main approaches: an organic technique that uses no pesticides, or a chemical method that employs an herbicide.

The organic method begins with placing plastic sheeting on top of the grass. "You need something that will totally stop the gas exchange of the atmosphere," Kowalewski said. "You're essentially suffocating the plant." In the heat of summer it could take 2-3 weeks to kill the grass.

The conventional (chemical) method is to spray a non-selective herbicide such as glyphosate on the grass in early morning and away from other plants. Apply again two weeks later to kill any dormant weed seeds that may have germinated.

Caution!  When applying garden chemicals, always wear protective clothing and follow the instructions on the label carefully!

Regardless of which method you choose, experts recommend scalping down the live grass with a mower, then scalping down the dead grass with a mower when it turns brown and aerating the deceased lawn.

 
Since living grass root parts will probably remain underground, it's prudent to completely remove any sod as well. A hand- or gas-powered sod cutter can be rented to separate the sod from the soil. Adjust the blade depth one-half to one-quarter inch. Afterward rake up sod manually with a square shovel or pitchfork.  This material can then be composted by using the 'heap' or 'trench' method, which will over time cook the roots to death.

Now what?

With the old turfgrass successfully removed, you're ready to establish your new landscape.  Good luck, and thanks for helping to conserve our shrinking water supplies!

Anheuser-Busch to buy Blue Point Brewing

The LA Times reports that The North American subsidiary of Anheuser-Busch InBev, maker of Budweiser and Stella Artois, is moving into the craft beer business, announcing Wednesday it will buy Blue Point Brewing Co., a N.Y. craft brewery.

Blue Point first began brewing craft beers 15 years ago in Patchogue, N.Y., and has become popular on the East Coast.

Anheuser-Busch did not disclose terms of the deal, but the move is the latest in efforts to expand AB InBev's footprint.

This move follows in the footsteps of Chicago-based mega-brewer MillerCoors acquiring the once-delightful Blue Moon brand.

Then there's Redhook Brewing, which began as a craft brewery back in the 80s. Since then, however, it has formed the company Craft Beer Alliance Inc. (with Widmer and Kona) and Anheuser-Busch InBev owns about 35 percent of the company.



Or consider Goose Island which was acquired by Anheuser-Busch InBev for $38.8 million in 2011.

Or what about Magic Hat, which had all the makings of a great craft brewery when it opened up shop in the early 90s. But they acquired Pyramid Brewing, then enticed North American Breweries (the company that owns Labatt and a few other imports) to purchase the entire conglomerate.

Nor is Leinenkugel a craft brew. Aside from being owned by SABMiller, it has been reported that Lenkie uses "adjunct ingredients" for flavor enhancement. Scurrilous.

Finally, if you’ve been to Hawaii, you’ve had a Kona. Actually, you can find them all over the place (36 states to be exact). That's because 35 percent of Kona is owned by Anheuser-Busch.

***
Ah, capitalism. If someone figures out a better way than you to do something ... buy and absorb them!